Thursday, 15 April 2010

Brunch at The Draft House, Northcote Road, Clapham Junction

On Sunday morning we headed down to baby central, Northcote Road to run a few errands. I’ve never been one to cope with doing anything on an empty stomach so we wandered past every bustling café, peering in to see what was on offer and if there was any room. I do love the atmosphere on Northcote Road, especially on a sunny day but to be honest, most of it is very same-y for brunch. You can have eggs or eggs, and nothing more exotic or exciting than eggs Benedict or a croissant (Gail’s do the best croissants, but I’m biased!).

My beloved Macondo (RIP), on Camden Passage in Angel, was a Latino café (I think there’s one in Shoreditch too). Admittedly they did serve eggs, but they were out of this world eggs! My favourite was huevos divorciados: two fried eggs served with an ancho chilli pepper red sauce & a green tomatillo sauce over Mexican tortillas – perfect for soaking up the hangover!

I was sceptical about going to the Draft House for breakfast as it was pretty empty and I didn’t want to be stuck in the back of a pub on a nice sunny day. I was pleasantly surprised entering the restaurant-y bit at the back as there is an enormous sun roof that makes the room really bright. When I saw the jug of Virgin Mary, I felt much more relaxed! Just what I fancied, and it was perfectly made.
We both had baked eggs, but mine was with spinach and James’ was with ham. It hadn’t mentioned hollandaise on the menu and both were quite heavily laden with it making both dishes quite runny but it was a tasty addition (and I can never resist hollandaise!). Luckily it came with two generous slices of sourdough toast to mop up all the scrumptious juices.

It was a good eggs-perience (sorry!) but I’m still on a quest for more egg-citing in my neck of the woods!

Friday, 2 April 2010

Gregg’s…oh, sorry, I mean Wallace & Co

Him off of the telly, Gregg Wallace from Masterchef has opened a restaurant. In the words of the man himself, ‘It looks great but does it deliver on FLAVOUR??’ (in a loud shouty voice). In a nutshell, it doesn’t. The problem is that Gregg has really set himself up for scrutiny, being obsessed on Masterchef with BIG FLAVOURS.

Walking in, I felt optimistic. Wallace & Co is a beautifully designed space comprised of a deli counter, a greengrocer section filled with abundant fresh vegetables with a large cafe behind. The whole place is a really comfortable, homely place which attracts masses of families, but in a good way.

My Virgin Mary was probably the only thing in the whole meal that wasn't a disappointment…well, almost. It was tasty with a good punch, but it didn't come with a stick of celery, and the straw they put in it was in upside down! I never even eat the celery anyway though, so this wasn’t a biggie to me.

We started with a feta, mint, cucumber and olive salad. Surprisingly, the menu didn't make any mention of the endive leaves the salad sat on, which were fresh and crispy but didn't really go with the rest of the mish-mash-mush. Where was the feta? And the mint? I asked the waitress where the mint was and she said it was ‘cooked with mint’. I pointed out it was a raw and she said it must be infused in the dressing. And why use black olives that taste of tin? And for £5.50, why so small? I’m normally one to find something nice to say about a dish but this one simply needs to come off the menu.

Next up was my tomato and goat’s curd quiche. The idea behind the dish was great – to show off delicious juicy tomatoes and creamy goat’s curd. I've never really understood when people said that pastry could be tough, but now I do. The texture of the egg custard itself was everything about a quiche that people don’t like, almost gelatinous. Very weird. And it’s no mean feat to make something taste of absolutely nothing. The star of the dish was the interesting peppery leaves that accompanied it.

The filling of James’ steak and ale pie was nice enough but, again, the pastry was tough. For me, a pie like that should be covered with puff pastry, rather than shortcrust, and certainly not tough-as-old-boots pastry! There was a tiny bit of mashed potato on the side which had been piped on using the star-shaped nozzle - surprisingly twee and un-Gregg Wallace-like (or am I getting him all wrong?).

Needless to say we skipped dessert. On the way out we had a look at the desserts which were at the deli counter and I’m glad we did skip it - all really naff-ly decorated and looked like they'd been sitting around for a while. Having said that, other reviews I've read have been quite positive about the puds so maybe that's what you should have there.

I really wanted to like Wallace & Co because because it has such a nice atmosphere and the interior really is beautiful, sadly I think it is fundamentally flawed as the dishes are so badly executed. No photos...I was too disappointed and irritated by the whole place that I decided not to take any, on principle!

Pull it together Gregg, at the moment I’d rather go to Gregg’s for a soggy pasty.

Wallace & Co
146 Upper Richmond Road
SW15 2SW